The mag nuts went though several variations mostly driven to reduce cost. I say this because in theory the barrel threads are what set and lock in the headspace ,not the tightness of the mag nut.Įxcessive wear can cause headspace issues,however a misaligned yoke can also bind a shell in the chamber. The loosening at the barrel lug may or may not have nothing to do with the stuck shell. I thought that I knew '37s, it would seem not and I now seek further education from you all! Please note I am aware of the need to replace my yoke screw, it was 'wrong screwdriver' damaged before my ownership!! I thought that maybe my ball detent was weak, but, research showed me that some mag caps are available without the dimples for the ball to engage.
My '65 has wear marks from the yoke screw and yoke itself from where it has always been positioned, about 1/8" behind the mag cap when cap is locked into the barrel lug.
Ithaca 37 featherlight heat shield manuals#
Is this common practice? It is contradictory to all other model 37 manuals that I have seen, which state "to dis-assemble screw the mag nut clockwise until it clears the barrel lug, then rotate the barrel" No mention of removing the yoke screw and drifting the yoke back first. In it, during assembly, it shows the yoke being hit by a hammer and wooden drift to contact the rear edge of the mag cap and so fix it in place prior to tightening the yoke screw.
Ithaca 37 featherlight heat shield manual#
My research eventually found a Kings Ferry field maintenance manual which showed a different approach to the loosening mag cap. (to quote Jack Reacher, to assume makes an ass of u and me!) I would be grateful if anyone could shed some light on the fitting of these parts as my '65 does not have them, nor any place to fit them. This is something that to me was hidden in plain sight, as I have always *assumed* that the ball detent was what prevented the mag cap from loosening. Checking the exploded views of the '37 from various sources, I was surprised to see the "mag nut pin" and its associated screw and spring. I decided to research a little further as I had formed half a plan to fit a grub screw into the side of the mag cap to lock it in place. This seemed like a headspace issue, with the barrel loosening within the interrupted threads. Upon examination, I saw that the case had bulged slightly, forward of the rim, had flowed into the extractor cut outs and had deformed behind the rim quite substantially. This seems to be a recurring issue and, I believe, is central to the problem. I discovered that the magazine cap was a little loose despite being tightened at the start of the stage. when I eventually managed to remove the offending case I decided to keep it for later examination (photographs). I was unable to finish the stage, so I made the gun safe and let it cool. Well gentlemen to revisit the 'fail to extract' issue I am afraid that I have some more questions to put to you.ĭuring a particularly long IPSC competition stage this last weekend I experienced the mother of all fails to extract. That's about all I can add to this conversation If the bolt was really loose and it turned out to be a headspace issue, you would know it. A broken coil spring can work fine some times and then the two pieces can "slip" and you have light strike. The only other problem to a light strike is that it could be a broken spring. Over here m37s aren't considered range guns ,they are guns that get kept in a closet till small game season ,and put back after it closes I also get the feeling your m37s are shot a whole bunch more then your avg m37 in the states. I have everything listed above in my spare parts box. I feel for you guys across the pond ,the parts were talking about are common and cheap here.
I've had to replace them before when I had excess play.the area is very small where it contacts the slide and its a high wear area If you sense play in the lock up look at the slide stop. Twistedoak wrote:raven will know better ,Īs far as ammo dumping you got it with a worn shell stop.